Saturday, December 24, 2011

Finding the Christmas Spirit



I think that many of the foreigners in Mysore would agree that without snow (if you're used to that sort of thing), and lights, and a constant barrage of holiday music emanating from the radio; without family all around and the smell of gingerbread or pine needles, it can be difficult to get into the Christmas (or Channukah or Kwanza) spirit. I know that Bart and I have found this to be true during the past week, hardly even realizing that Christmas eve was approaching before it was already upon us! So now, here we are on the day before Christmas, just returned from Bart's epic 12 dosa breakfast, and sitting in our living room with the front door wide open so we can listen to the breeze rustling the palm trees. It's a rough way to spend a morning, let me say. ;)

We know that being apart from family and friends for the holidays is a challenge. It brings up a lot of emotion for everyone, us included, and we wanted you to know that we have been thinking of all of you during these past few days. Though we are missing each other, I know that we all understand that this is only a temporary separation, and that we are all so lucky to have one another as constants in our lives. I know I speak for Bart as well, when I say that our lives would not be the same without you.

Usually, around this time, we're piling gifts under our tree and mailing off packages; or we're packing the car and the dog and heading out to visit all the people we love – off to see all of you. But since that isn't possible this year, we wanted to tell you what we have been doing to celebrate the season. Instead of gifts under the tree this year, which we would normally be wrapping right now, Bart and I decided that since we all have so much to be grateful for already, we wanted to take the opportunity that spending Christmas in India has offered us and share our resources. We decided to make a donation of the money that we would normally use for presents and paper and all the other Christmas goodies and offer it to a local organization where we felt it could be well used. After speaking to some other yoga students and knowledgeable friends, our organization of choice was Odanadi, an operation founded in Mysore that rescues and houses children who are being, or are at high risk of being, trafficked for either underage slave labour or sexual exploitation. This practice is still in full throttle in countries like India, and though Odanadi generally deals only with human trafficking cases that take place in the state of Karnataka, it currently houses about 70 girls and 12 boys. The goal of Odanadi is to provide refuge for these children so that they can begin to recover from the trauma they've experienced and prepare to be reintegrated into society as productive adults. Odanadi works to not only ensure that these children have adequate food, shelter and clothing, but also helps them to learn life skills as well as receive an education. They've had several college graduates including a lawyer and a state politician who now works to help stop these types of crimes against humanity.

We truly feel that Odanadi is deserving of any help we can provide and so that is why we decided to make our donation to them. In addition, we've been able to go there several times, interact with the staff and children and generally see how the operation works. It's so wonderful to have the chance to see how these kids are directly benefiting from the work of the organization, and to be able to have a hands on role in that work! We've participated in a Mehndi Magic afternoon where we were given henna tattoos and just yesterday we spent the evening making Christmas decorations with the children. They have so much fun with these types of activities – and so do we!!

It's so important to both Bart and I to try to keep in mind how fortunate we are – how much bounty we have, both in terms of our home and belongings and the people who fill our lives – and when we see how far a single dollar can go in India, we know that this money can really make a difference for these kids. In fact, we've been told that our donation will go directly to building a better home for the boys rescued by Odanadi, as they currently have to be housed in small huts due to lack of resources. Based on what one of the founders told us, the money that we've donated could be used to by the concrete for the entire home twice over. AMAZING!!!

Though we physically made this donation, the gratitude and credit here is really due to all of you for your willingness to support us in making it happen. We hope that as you read this blog post and look at the photos of all the kids you're helping that it will be just as exciting as any gift we could have gotten you. We hope that you will see the joy, the sweetness, and the potential that we've been able to see first hand in these kids, and we hope that their bright and beautiful smiles will warm your hearts, no matter the weather outside.

Merry Christmas and much love to all of you. Thank you so much for your part in making this possible.



Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Explanations and "Thank You"s

I've been gone for a couple of weeks - I know, and I'm sorry. But I'm back now.

There has been a lot going on these past two weeks which have kept me away from this space. For one, my hunny arrived last week! We've spent the past several days getting him settled in and on track for his month here. He won't be practicing yoga, but he's already using his newly mapped Indian running route, which has resulted in witnessing the interaction of a mama goat with her newborn baby and the discovery of India's deadliest snake (a sidewinder!). I've been working hard at practice (whew - when past students say "first month tired, second month pain", they're not kidding), and Sanskrit, trying to maintain my focus and learn as much as I possibly can. Also, I was asked to write an article for an Ashtanga website run by one of the authorized teachers practicing here. I wrote about why we come to Mysore and if you're interested it was followed up by a really nice piece by my roommate's wife about how it feels to be the partner left to carry on life halfway around the world. So yes, it's been busy around here. But it's been good!

In the meantime, I know it has also been busy for those of you there. With Thanksgiving over the Holiday season is in full swing, I'm sure, and as I sit on the floor of my Indian apartment and see the palm trees swaying in the breeze, it's hard for me to remember that all of those types of celebrations are only a few weeks away.

In honour of Thanksgiving and in preparation for the season ahead, I wanted to share some of my own sentiments of gratitude. I have so much to be thankful for, including, but not limited to:

  • a wonderful and supportive husband who encourages me to follow my dreams
  • a loving family who has faith in my choices, even if they don't always understand
  • friends here and at home who are willing to laugh at my bad jokes, listen to my long stories, get up at ungodly hours to meet me for coffee or breakfast or yoga, and generously offer me delicious food, soft beds and shoulders to cry on when needed
  • the opportunity to experience both the beauty and frustration of living in India, to work with a teacher I deeply respect, the ability to practice and to be a part of something I wholeheartedly believe in
  • an awesome roommate; someone so willing to share space, knowledge, and time
  • a very cute dog who is well behaved or at least sneaky enough only to be bad when you're not watching
  • all of you who read and write and email and message - who send love and good energy and positive thoughts
Thank you! Have a great week and keep reading....



Monday, November 14, 2011

Always Somewhere to Go

Someone once told me, "it's easy to busy yourself up in Mysore." Whether this statement was meant as a warning or a comfort, I'm still not sure, but as the days pass I'm finding it to be increasingly true.

Despite the fact that most of the students in the shala are here without the commitments of regular work hours and real-life responsibilities, time quite easily slips through your fingers from day to day. There's practice and chanting, Sanskrit class and Ayurvedic consults. You can get a massage or go haggle at Deveraja market. You can scoot and rickshaw; meet friends for coffee or have people over for lunch. And yes, we have the choice to stay in to nap or read or hone a skill. When in Mysore whether you want to be out and about or stay focused at home, there's always somewhere to go.

This week I stretched my socializing legs; making new discoveries and meeting new friends. On Sunday I hitched a scooter ride to the Organic farmer's market, where a few tiny tables attract a somewhat larger group of yoga students to buy fresh organic goods including pungent basil, sweet jaggery, and lime-pomegranate juice. Excited by this little taste of my normal Baltimore Sunday routine, I happily handed over rupees in exchange for baby eggplants, dark sesame treats and a jar of homemade orange marmalade.

Another morning I went for Indian breakfast with my friends Suveer and Kapil, trusting their expert opinions and getting them to order my meal. Happily, I ended up trying two new and delicious things, upma (a savoury semolina hot pudding, kind of like a coarse curried grits) and onion uthappam (an onion, chili, and rice/lentil batter pancake), and got to finish it all off with a sweet kesari bhaat and a hot cup of chai.

The moon day eve brought a festive spirit when I attended my first (perhaps THE first) Mysore Mexican fiesta complete with tacos, guacamole, and the most AMAZING dessert which tasted like chocolate ganache in a cup. Our resident pastry chef pulled out all the stops by topping the creation with gold dust. Yep, you read correctly, gold dust! You may need to beat your laundry against a rock to wash it, but damn it you're going to have some dessert with panache.

In tandem with all my socializing, I also made sure to make some quiet time for myself this week. I finished two books, had several rests, and cooked lentil soup, tomato eggplant pasta, veg curry, and (surprise) toast. I spent some time with my ukulele, practicing my finger picking which is still terrible, and singing along when I was sure I was home alone.

I've also been working on my Sanskrit lessons. I finished level 1 this week, and was eager to start level 2. However, just as I was beginning to become familiar with Devanagari, recognizing the characters and matching them to their appropriate sounds, I'm suddenly required to conjugate verbs and make simple sentences. Whoa there! Back that truck up! I feel a little like I should have had the option to take level 1.5. And to make matters worse (although, in reality, I know it makes matters better) my roommate is "enhancing" my learning by having me read aloud to him at night. Only a few lines, which can often take me 10 or 15 minutes, are enough to make me flustered and red in the face. I'm embarrassed by my lack of skill at both quick recognition and appropriate pronunciation especially because he is fairly adept and advanced. It's his patience and encouragement though, that make me go into my room and read a few more lines aloud to myself before going to bed, attempting to employ Guruji's sentiment to "do my practice".

In the shala each morning, I'm finding places to go in my practice as well. For those who are not familiar or accustomed to Ashtanga, the daily routine of the same postures in the same order may seem boring or monotonous. For regular practitioners thoughts may jump ahead to the next posture or the next series. Either way, we need to recognize that there is so much work to be done, right here, right now! Each practice offers a new challenge, and in finding that we are able to let go of monotony and desire in exchange for clarity and non-attachment. It's this sentiment that I'm trying to keep in mind.

This week, every time I stepped on to my mat, I set out one goal for the practice. Bringing attention to something as mundane as not smoothing out my practice rug after each vinyasa, or to something as important as maintaining a solid gazing point, offered a new endeavour and focal point. These challenges, in turn, positively reinforced the other parts of my practice: greater efficiency and proper breath count because I wasn't distracted and wasting time, or stronger body awareness in my own posture because I wasn't looking at that of another. In both cases my practice felt greatly improved without any changes that someone from the outside would obviously recognize.

In Mysore I feel like I'm given an opportunity to have a different perspective. While I may "busy myself up" both out in the world and on the couch in my apartment, I never lose sight of my purpose. I'm here to practice and I want to approach that practice with my eyes fully open. This week it's allowing me to see and focus on the possibility of forward motion and progress in the most minute ways and reminding me that no matter where I am in my life or on my mat, whether I feel stagnant or in chaotic motion, there's always somewhere to go. The key is get there one breath at a time.

Sunday, November 6, 2011

It's That Simple

When I first arrived in India last year, I was taken aback by what I thought was a lot of unnecessary complication. Everything is less automated and takes more time; you can't just use your credit card whenever you feel the urge; you have to fill out this form for that thing and it needs to be in triplicate; this store is open, but not really because the owner is eating lunch. It took some time, but after a while I realized that what I mistook as being inconvenienced by things being too complicated, was actually more of a simplified life - one to which I was no longer accustomed. Things seemed more challenging and difficult, but it was only because, in most situations I had only one, very simple, choice: write things by hand; pay with cash; fill out the form; come back later.

It's a lesson of simplicity that I've drawn out of my life and my practice this week. And it's the joy that I've found in the most simple things and tasks that have helped to make this week fly.

It all started with toast.

Toast, really, is nothing but hot bread, but it was this mundane comfort of home that I really wanted this week. I found myself okay with being caught in torrential rains and wearing slightly musty laundry. Cold showers were easily acceptable, and I could deal with ants, well, everywhere. But I missed toast. My roommate and I had made an attempt to toast bread in a pot, because as I said, toast, in theory, is really nothing more than hot bread, but the effect of the "pot toast" was just not the same. None of that toothsome crunchy exterior with a warm and soft middle. No...honestly, we took some slices of bread and increased their temperature. We gave bread a fever and that's about it.

So I made a decision. A big one.

I bought a toaster.

And let me tell you, all the pieces of bread - wheat, millet, multigrain - that have found their way between those glowing red coils and become warm, slightly crisped, decidedly toasty and ready to accept toppings, have been more appreciated than I can explain. Toast with hummus, toast with peanut butter, toast with butter and honey, toast with cheese. There's been a lot of toasting going on in this household; each satisfying bite reemphasizing that there is so much to be offered by simple pleasures.

In the same way that toast has helped to convince me that all the other things that could be considered inconveniences are just nuisances that can be overlooked, the asana practice helps us to move past the negative influences in our lives. As Sharath said this afternoon, the practice is the tool that helps us to move towards a life that embraces the yamas and niyamas - the ethical concepts we strive to follow in our lives - which include ahimsa (non-harming), santosha (contentment), asteya (non-stealing), and tapas (self discipline), among others. It's that simple. We come to our mat each day, we focus our bodies and our minds through posture and breath and drishti (gaze), and in turn our lives will start to come into focus as well. It may mean sacrifice, and it may take many years of practice, but if we use the tool we've been given the distractions and delusions begin to fall away.

That's the kind of simplicity I want in my life - a focal point to keep me grounded; a strong foundation from which to build. And so I will get up each morning, go to the shala and work as hard as I can. I will do what I came here to do, which is practice and learn. And I will revel in the simple beauty of Ashtanga yoga: the uncomplicated and logical method it follows, the building blocks which stack one on top of the other, supported by a foundation that cannot be rocked. I will breathe and sweat and try to take the lessons I learn on my mat home with me.

Then, I'll eat some toast, maybe with jam, and I'll enjoy every moment of this opportunity that I have been given.



Sunday, October 30, 2011

Look on the Bright Side

Another week has passed and it seems like it has come and gone so quickly. Time feels as though it moves at a snail's pace here, but at the same time the days and weeks are suddenly behind you before you realize.

This week marked the Indian festival of Diwali - a celebration of triumph of good over evil, light over darkness. And what better way to mark the occasion than by huge fireworks displays?! Every night as the yoga students headed to bed, Indian families joined together outside of their homes and lit fuse after fuse. There were small pops and huge bangs and fireworks that shot out of cones and ones that you could swing around on ropes. It made the fourth of July feel like child's play. And while Diwali, like many holidays at home, seems to revolve around the laughter and excitement of all the things that are occurring in the streets, the holiday has spiritual significance as well. This "festival of lights" refers not just to the pyrotechnic displays, but to the celebration of the inner light residing in all of us. It is a way to remember that our strength and beauty can develop into something that has the ability to overcome darkness in all of its forms.

This seemed to be the theme this week, as in conference today, my teacher, Sharath, discussed the meaning of the word "guru." Commonly translated as teacher, the actual breakdown of the word means "one who dispels darkness", and it is through devotion to your teacher and the teachings, that you will find a guide in this journey from dark to light. Today we were reminded that there is a brightness within each one of us, and as that develops we, in turn, allow ourselves to turn away from the dark - from the negativity that accompanies greed and anger and ego. But for most of us, finding this brightness and allowing it to shine is challenging. Sometimes we need a little help, even if we're afraid to ask for it. It is a long and difficult process - it can take a lifetime (some would argue longer) - but with help we can accomplish it, and along the way there is so much to learn and absorb, so much knowledge and wisdom to be gained.

I love this notion of inner light - and always have. Most of the faiths that I have studied use the analogy of inner light in some way - and I love it that yoga, as well as its teachers, carry on this tradition. It provides a connection between all of us, no matter what race or religion, age or gender. We are all on the path to finding our personal spark of light, working hard in order to allow it to well up within us, and then once it is developed, allowing it to shine brightly, emanating as a beacon that perhaps, with much discipline and devotion, might inspire someone else to brush aside the darkness with their own small, but brightly burning flame. And even though our paths may diverge and there may be many stops along the way, we are all beginning from the same place and traveling to the same destination. We're all making our way through this world just trying to look on the bright side.

Happy Diwali to everyone. May your days be filled with laughter and joy, your nights with peace and comfort and may your inner light shine more brightly than you ever thought possible.


Sunday, October 23, 2011

Settling In and Slowing Down

The alarm went off at 4:15 this morning. Even though it sounds crazy, I kind of love getting up at that time of the morning. It's probably one of the only times that the streets in India are quiet, when there aren't very many people out, except for the other insane yoga students. In this country where things often seem to be in utter chaos, the relative calm and stillness of early morning is even more apparent.

It soothing. It's comforting. It's contagious.

Today was my second practice since I arrived in Mysore. Both have been led Primary Series, with Sharath wandering amidst the columns and rows of multicoloured mats counting us through each vinyasa and pose in Sanskrit. Encouraging a slow and steady connection of breath and movement, I've found myself savouring these mornings of led practice with my teacher. In the past I've often found the slow speed of Sharath's count a little bit torturous, forcing me to hold poses that I would normally try to rush out of before completing the five full breaths, or sustaining inhalations or exhalations for much longer than I would if I were practicing on my own. However, after the last couple of months, in which I often found myself frantic with the pace of my regular life, this slowly rolling cadence feels like a perfectly tuned heartbeat; a constant and life sustaining rhythm that propels me forward while creating space in body, breath and mind. It's amazing, and I'm so grateful for the room that he is creating for me, and helping me to create, both on and off my mat.

When I leave the shala, I'm trying to take this lesson with me into my day. I routinely hear his voice in my head, mimicking his continual question from class: “what's your hurry?”

What is my hurry? That's just it. Here, I don't have a reason to rush or panic or anticipate. Here, all that matters is the moment: what you feel like doing right now, where you feel like eating, if you feel like you'd rather take a nap. Life moves at a leisurely pace, and I firmly believe that, for me, coming to Mysore is a way to help me separate from my tendency to take on more than I should; my tendency to overbook and overextend myself and convince myself and everyone around me that I can handle it. Mysore is my wake up call. Better yet, Mysore is my get some rest call.

Now, if only I could convince my jet-lag, time-change induced insomnia to agree.

Everything in time.




The coconut stand:
a great place to take a few minutes to sit, drink, and talk with friends.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Before Packing Up; After Setting Out

Before:

It's hard to believe that in less than 48 hours I will be walking down a breezeway, boarding a plane, and finding myself on the 28 hour trip that will land me in Mysore, India. There will be DC traffic and airport security, cramped seats and likely crying babies. There will be a layover in Paris, a perilous midnight car ride and a process of re-introduction. More importantly, though, there will be goodbyes and “see-you-soon”s and more than likely a few nervous tears as I let go of my life here – setting it on a shelf for the next three months.

This adventure isn't easy, and sometimes it's downright awful, but after my experience in Mysore last year, I feel like returning isn't even a choice – beyond my control or desires, this is a trip I HAVE to make.

Year in and year out Ashtangis from all over the world converge on tiny Gokulam, the Mysore suburb the Jois family calls home. We come looking for something bigger and stronger and beyond ourselves. We come to learn from the source, to find connection to tradition and lineage. We come as singles and pairs, families and friends; we come anxious and comfortable, worried and elated. But no matter how we arrive, we leave changed, and it is for that reason that so many of us will make the journey 3, 8, or 12 times over. For us, the progress and evolution that is made, the internal and external work accomplished, is compelling enough for us, and those who care for and about us, to warrant the sacrifices required to leave homes, jobs and families for weeks or months at a time. And this is what I try to remember as I dig through my belongings, finding all I think I'll need for the next three months and pack it into my suitcase while my depressed pooch looks on. I pack up the necessities of my life, including bits and pieces that remind me of all the people, places and things that I love, but am leaving behind.

While I know I'm better prepared mentally for this trip, there is still some trepidation. And as the day that seemed so far off for so long suddenly stands up huge and looming in front of me, my very nonchalant attitude is quickly turning to panic.

I JUST NEED TO BREATHE!!!

Which is precisely what I'm going halfway around the world to do. And what I need to remember is that when I get back to this life, pull it down off of its shelf and dust it off I will find new beauty in it. I'll discover things that I've been overlooking, and see it with fresh perspective, because it will be different. Because I will be different. And that change can be a spark from which to ignite the world.



After:

It's been less than 12 hours since I hauled by crazy heavy suitcase from the car and into my serene Anokhi Garden room, and already I'm feeling at home. It's hot and noisy and everything here is just as I remember: the cows in the street, the cacophony of honking horns, the chatting around the coconut stand. I can already feel the change in my level of comfort on this trip. The way I'm adapting back, continuing right where I left off last year at this time. This morning I hopped on the back of a scooter without a second thought, sought and found a place I'd never been to on only one try, and generally spent my first morning getting more accomplished than I thought possible.

Things are coming together so quickly. This morning, as I came out of my room to get some breakfast, a friend from last year came in from the other room calling my name with a big smile. A quick hug, a hello, and suddenly my biggest anxiety was alleviated - he offered me a place to stay! I am officially not homeless! I'll be staying with him for the entire time in our perfect 2 bed, 2 bath flat. And it has a kitchen! It has no bowls or utensils to really speak of, but it's a kitchen nonetheless and I am a happy girl. It's 2 minutes from the shala, it's big and clean and bright and is going to be fantastic. And now it's eerily calm. I've got nothing really to worry about. How is that even possible? It's the magic of Mysore.

Tomorrow I will register at the shala for my Friday start of practice, Saturday I'll move, but other than that, it feels as though I'm easily settling in - and it's a wonderful feeling. And of course there are things and people that I miss like crazy when I'm here, which makes it so challenging, but once you're here all that reasoning you did before you came just takes up residence in your heart and you don't just know you're following the right path, you feel it, with your whole self.