On the Move

Mysore – Week 4

It's amazing how time gets away from you – as I complete my final full week in Mysore, I can hardly believe that it's already coming to an end. It's almost as if I've entered some sort of panic mode, hurriedly trying to fit in the final few adventures, making the most of last days with new friends, and every practice just working as hard as I can to continue the progress that I've made here.

I've been on the move this last week, working my way around Mysore, taking in the sights that I'd been putting off, always thinking, oh maybe next Saturday – well, today is my LAST Saturday, and it was here before I could even realize what was happening. But I'm feeling content about my whirlwind tour of the city. Last Sunday night, after a restful day, I headed into town with a couple of friends to celebrate our final evening together (they've both left since). On Sundays, the main palace in Mysore becomes a gathering place for couples, families and tourists who all cram their way through the gates and onto the grounds for the weekly lighting of the palace facade. We arrived around 6:45 and made our way through the queue. The sprawling lawns were filled with people eating, laughing and generally just enjoying a perfect South India evening. At 7:00 p.m. with the flick of a switch the palace lights were turned on and what had been both grand and beautiful to begin with turned into something absolutely magical. The thousands of lightbulbs lining the palace, temples, and gates to the grounds are all illuminated simultaneously, and though I suspect that the rest of the city experiences brown outs for the remainder of the evening, it's totally worth it. To accompany the lights the air was filled with the sounds of drums and horns and as we got closer to the front of the palace we discovered a military band, all in uniform. We watched for a while, noticing that the quality of the music seemed to deteriorate slightly after the first number (perhaps practice time was limited) and once we felt we had had the full experience, we took to the streets for some roasted corn (not nearly as delicious as it sounds/looks/smells) and grabbed a rickshaw home. It was a wonderful way to spend a final evening, and a nice way to wind down my time in Mysore.

This week I also visited another classic Mysore sight, Chamundi Hill. A huge hill just on the edge of the city, most people make their way to the top via rickshaw or car. But anyone who knows me has already surmised that this was not the way I would want to mount this classic pilgrimage site. The alternative, a 1000+ step climb is the way the true pilgrims do it, and I was not about to let that experience pass me by. We started early, trying to avoid the hot weather, and were sent off in style by a group of monkeys who have made the base of the steps their home. About two thirds of the way up we stopped to visit the Nandi Bull, a huge statue of the bull incarnation of Shiva over which they pour coconut oil in order to have it turn black in the powerful Indian sun. Reportedly there is also a cave swami at this site, but after we heard that his cave more resembles a 4 star hotel, including satelite TV, we decided against a visit. After our legs had rested for a few minutes we decided it was time to finish the climb, taking the last few hundred steps well, and finding ourselves at the top of the hill and in front of a large temple. Upon entering we were aided on the winding journey through; we made our flower offerings, received our puja bindis and then found our way back to the large surrounding terrace with beautiful views of the city and fresh coconuts to quench our thirst. Though refreshed the trip down was not as easy as you might think, and we all felt as though we'd definitely gotten our exercise for the day.


Though the sights I've seen this week are incredible and beautiful and have added infinitely to my time in Mysore, they were both initiated as a final farewell for friends who are leaving. Our month is coming to an end, and for those of us for whom it is not feasible to stay on for another 2, 3 or 5 months, it is difficult to say goodbye. Even when I went to the shala to register to practice for a couple extra days before I leave, Sharath questioned my one month stay with what I felt was disappointment. But that is the nature of this place, people are always coming and going, and the constant influx and departure of students and friends forces you to deal with that generally hated concept – change. Rather similarly to when I arrived – I once again am in transition. Apparently it is a lesson I need to re-learn.

I could even feel it this week in my practice, the frustration I felt when I arrived came creeping in as I tried, without success, to achieve one of the milestones of the Primary Series, standing up from Urdhva Danurasana – backbend. Some days it's feeling so close, and others so very very far away, and it's hard to keep in mind that even as my practice has progressively grown in the last few weeks, my body and my mindset change from day to day which can have drastic effects. Through it all, it's difficult to remember that each practice is going to be different, sometimes in positive ways, sometimes not.

We are always in transition; no pose, no person, no place, no state of mind is permanent. So, climb the steps, be awed by the lights, cherish the friends, and be compassionate to yourself – in this life we are always on the move, enjoy it!